Archive for August, 2010

DAY 30 - TRENT-SEVERN CANAL - Lake Simcoe to Sparrow Lake, Lauderdale Point Resort

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Weather: OMG!

Lake: OMG!

Canal: fine

Night Mooring: Lauderdale Point Resort

Comments: 

Lovely morning - sunny.  Gased up, cleaned the aft deck with bleach (read previous day for reference to Canada Geese treasures), talked to the locals about possible storms this morning.  Headed out to the very large Lake Simcoe (think 2 x Lake Winnepesaukee, 20 x Walloon Lake).

Ah ha, storm clouds to the north.  Our heading?  North.

By the time we were well away from any reachable shoreline, we were in 2-4 foot choppy waves being buffetted from all sides by wind and heavy rain.  Not to worry.  All four of us had experienced 5-6 footers on Lake Huron.  The guys stood at the helm, and the gals read, taking the occassional photo of the weird clouds and vanishing horizon.

Had they bothered to look at the boys, they would have realized that there was zero visability ahead, and that said boys were navigating via GPS, radar, and sheer gut. 

Well, we are here to write about it.  But, it was certainly one of the more tense moments of our journey. 

Almost miraculously, the storm was suddenly gone and the sun was out.  But, it slowed our day and our goal of making Port Severn for the night.

Of note is that we had only 1 lock today, but it was the one we have been waiting for for weeks.  Lock 42 - the lock master is a WOMAN!!!   Oh yes, there is truly a glass ceiling in the lock master ranks.  She had to prove herself for 23 years.  The boys were leary of a female being able to comprehend the mechanics and hydrology of locking, let alone be able to grease the gears or respond in a crisis.  Turns out she now commands the most popular and most financially profitable lock in the system.  Gee…

So, here we are at Lauderdale Point! 

Good news:  bath houses, as Pam says, “7-8 out of 5!!!”

DAY 29 - TRENT-SEVERN CANAL - Fenelon Falls to Lake Simcoe

August 18, 2010

Weather: Sheer Bliss!!!!  Sunburns all around.

Canal and Lakes: flat and gorgeous

Night Mooring:Lagoon City Marina, Lake Simcoe

Fun day, all canals and 6 locks. 

Wildlife: More loons, heron, too many Canada geese, and osprey.  We have learned that the osprey are loved and somewhat protected around here, that they mate for life, and that they often die from drowning.  Yes, drowning!  Seems that when they swoop down to catch a fish, the fish may be too heavy for them to take off again.  And, that their talons do not release until they are in a sitting position (on shore).  So, the osprey cannot let go and they go down with the fish. 

The best fun was yet another hydraulic “lift lock” in Kirkfield.  Unlike at Peterborough, we were now locking from high water to low water.  So, we entered this lock at the top with little feel for what we would see.  And also unlike Peterborough, this lift-lock was open-air and we could see all around us, up and down.   Cameras ready…    Down we went, over 45 feet.    Cool, very cool.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirkfield_Lift_Lock

Soon after we went through another set of four flight locks, ending at the huge Lake Simcoe. 

Our night mooring would be at Lagoon City Marina, a very fine and very large marina, with charming Canada Geese all around, tons of huge boats, a restaurant, and a great looking bath house.

Posh!!!  Yes!!!

Yes??  As we came into our slip and approached our cleats,  *%!!!***?&***.    Those charming Canada Geese had deposited their personal treasures all over the docks.  

Life stopped until Rick and a borrowed broom cleaned the pathways.  It sure took the edge off. 

Showers: only 2.25 out of 5.

The cute female dock hands:  IQ 20.   

Dinner on LF:  Seemed appropriate.

 

 

DAY 28 - TRENT SEVERN CANAL - Mount Julian to Fenelon Falls

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Crew: Pam and Tom VanHorn, and Donna

Weather: Sunny and Windy!

Canal and Lakes:  Light chop

Night Mooring: On the wall at Fenelon Falls

Comments: 

Captain:  “We’re sinking.”

Crew: Dumb stares.

Ok, so not so much of a big thing this time.  The bilge pump was only going off every 90 minutes or so.  Enough to put Rick back into his date/time log.  But, the rest of us turned back to our books.  (See list of  cruise reads, with ratings!)  

We left Viamede and Stoney Lake, with a day of small lakes and only 4 locks ahead of us.  The whole area was beautiful.   Very much like the Thousand Islands with New Hampshire lakes Sunapee and Squam thrown into the mix.

To date there had been no injuries to the crew, but Pam was about to show her stuff.  On day 1, she fell out of bed.  The floor, it seemed, moved (or was further away than she had thought).  On this day, she was bothered by the bow lines laying askew.  She worried about a trip and fall.  And, having arranged them beautifully,  then tripped over the anchor and landed spread eagle on the foredeck.  Over the course of the week she would amass a series of bruises on her arms and legs,  not to mention splitting her big toe nail.

The day ended, however, at what may turn out to be our favorite mooring of all:  the town wall at lock #38, Fenelon Falls.  This charming little town has two main streets that cross at the lock.  Facing the canal are a series of eateries and boutique shops.  We chose a spot in the middle, and quickly learned that The Lake House Restaurant opposite us was the town’s finest.  Happy hour on the boat, dinner 200 steps away… 

and a hot pink sunset that rivaled anything on Walloon…  heaven!!! 

Dinner:  best of the best - Rigatoni with Italian sausage and marinara (YUM!)

DAY 27 - TRENT-SEVERN CANAL - Peterborough to Mount Julian

Monday, August 16, 2010

Crew:  Pam and Tom VanHorn, and Donna

Weather: Partly cloudy; breezy

Canal and Lakes: low swells

Night Mooring: Viamede Resort

Comments: 

LOCK 21!!!  The tallest hydraulic lift in the world. 

Built between 1896 and 1904 of unreinforced concrete, the Peterborough Hydraulic Lift Lock is still today considered an engineering wonder. 

Sure rocked our socks!  Especially since it took about 2 minutes for us to rise 65 feet.  Thank goodness Tom had his movie camera.   

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peterborough_Lift_Lock

The rest of the day was charming, but without distinction - until Hell’s Gate.

Suddenly, the landscape changed.  Rocks rose from the waters, and islands filled the larger water ways.  It was so beautiful.

Quite by luck, our destination marina was closed, forcing us into alternative plans.  And good luck it was - we spent the evening in a vintage marina - Viamede Resort.  Great docks, fun bar, karaoke, and - ta da - acceptable showers (3/5 on our scale). 

A nice sunset, dinner outside on the deck of the bar overlooking the lake, and early to bed.

Wildlife:  more osprey and their nests (on utility poles), the call of a loon, and spiders in our beds. 

 

 

R&J Album of the Erie Canal

Click this ( Link )

Boats of the Erie Canal

Click this (Link) for Boats of the Erie Canal

DAY 26 - TRENT-SEVERN CANAL - Campbellford to Peterborough

SURVIVORS:  RICK AND DONNA GROSS, AND PAM AND TOM VANHORN

LET US JUST SAY UP FRONT THAT THIS WAS A DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

August 15, 2010

Weather: cloudy, thunderstorms, sunny, thunderstorms, sunny/muggy/dark

Canal and Lakes: flat to 2 foot swells

Night Mooring:  Peterbough; Little Lake Marina

Dinner: on board: brats and deli salads

Comments:

Dull start to the day - the T-S locks open at 8:30 a.m. - patience is a virtue!

By 9:00 we were locking through #13, enjoying bagels with cream cheese, and checking our Trent-Severn Wildlife cards, distributed at each lock by the lock keeping assistants.

Just above lock 14, a set of osprey nests, with their osprey in residence, were nicely perched on an electical pole and a high powered light, despite human efforts to create perches for their nests.   So cool!!!   Huge nests, much like those of eagles.   

The Double Locks 16 and 17 were on our horizon, and would be our second such set.  After last nights’ experience we were all JUICED to take photos from above as we rose another 50 feet in these spectacular double locks. 

As we approached the double, Rick slowed LF while Donna leaped to the wall.   Her mission: to capture LF and the elevation changes from the Trent River through the two locks.    By now it was raining, and there were some 100 steps to run up.   But, no bother.  Donna would dry.

Great photos of course, with LF tied tightly to the lock wall behind another boat of similar size.  And, up they came!  For Donna, a neat sight from the bottom of lock 16, to the top of 16, to the top of 17 looking down as both boats rose.

Thunder and lightning now moved quickly from Campbellford toward the lock.  Tom, on the foredeck was getting pretty soaked, as was Pam on the aft.  Donna had found refuge on the porch of the lock master’s house.  And Rick worked the lines with Pam.   Quietly LF and her lock-mate started to rise.

Suddenly, buffeting against a swirling wind inside the lock, Loon Feather strained at her ropes, sending her bow away from the wall.   Tom leaned with all his weight to get her back -  6, 8, 10 feet she swung.  

Shouts.  Shuffles.  Sliding on the slick bow.  But, finally, Tom won, though still struggled as LF continued her rise inside the lock.   At last, the water level maxed at the top of #16 (bottom of #17), and the boats were calm.

Meanwhile, lock master Dale, stationed in a little shed at the top of the locks,  started pushing remote controls to open the lock gates between 16 and 17.   This would allow LF and her fellow boat to pass through to #17 to rise another 25 feet again.

Suddenly, thunder roared and lighting soared. 

FLASH!  POP!  ZZZZZ CHCHCHCH KKKKKK!!!!  (in green) from the nearby electrical pole.

And again, POP!  ZZZZZZZ!  FLASH FLASH KKKKKK!!! (in white).

One last try of the remote controls,  KKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK!   CHCHCHCH!  ZZZZZZZZZZZ  POP!!! 

Then, nothing.

We all saw it - the electrical pole with the transformer from the adjoining hydroelectric power station -  ZZZZZZZZ, dead.

And the lock doors from 16 to 17 ???   Open only ONE FOOT APART.

And the electrical power for miles around ???  NONE!!!

Lock 15 was out.  Lock 14 was out.  Lock 13 was out.  All four associated hydroelectric power dams were out.  And the entire city of Campbellford was out.

And Loon Feather???

The rain came down.  Lightning and thunder all around.  Translation: no one was stepping a foot onto the steel surrounding the locks, to fix or even look-see.

No computers without power.  And, no absolute knowledge between the various lock masters as to where the problem had originated, and how long it would take to fix.

Tom, Pam, and Rick made haste to secure LF on the wall, then moved inside to wait out the storm.  The good news was that they were at the top of the wall (top of the lower lock), so that they could step off the boat should the problem last for hours/days.  Had LF been at the bottom of the lock with the lock doors shut, the crew might have been trapped until the sepage from the not-so-tightly-sealed lock doors brought them up to a step-off level.

Donna, in the meantime, enjoyed the drama at the lock master’s house.  Word spred quickly by cell and land phone.   But mostly, it was sit, wait, and take photos until the maintenance crews, aka Hydro 1, determined the where, what, and why.

A bit more than an hour later, the crews arrived. 

“Our” electrical pole was the source.   BUT, the storm was not the cause!!!

Seems that for weeks the lock master had been watching a pair of osprey start a nest at the top of the pole.  Hmmmm.  Thunder and Lighting:  A very wild coincidence!

One cherry picker and 20 minutes later, Hydro 1 had picked the bits and branches off of the lines, and the 50 square miles of outage was ended!

No longer locked in, we locked through, and headed for our next locks with a locking story for each lock master along our way.

By late afternoon, however, we realized our time in 16/17 had pinched our arrival at lock #19, which would close at 7:00 p.m.   Our mooring for the night was to be at Peterborough on the other side.  If we did not make the lock, we would be forced to swing on an anchor in the next approaching storm.

Of course, much of the river area is a NO WAKE zone, with a traveling speed of 5 knots.  Our timing needed to be pretty accurate.

And then we were there.  Rick pulled to the starboard side of the canal, and idled while a large tour boat on a dinner cruise locked through. 

It seemed forever for this lock to rise a mere 15 feet to let the tour boat out, and us in.  But, it turned out that this was the last of the original-original locks, with limestone block walls, and of course the “sweeps”.

Then, just as the lock was about to open, came a roar from around the bend causing us all to grab a balance and hang on tight.

This was a boat, about our size, but new and powerful.  And her captain had for miles been full throttle trying to make the lock before closing, sending wake up onto boats, and docks, and shorelines.

She screamed past us, but stopped close enough to us for them to hear our full force shouts.  We had caught 5-6 foot waves off of her, rocking us violently, and almost sending us into the nearby docks. 

Ellis Island was her name.  Perhaps the owners’ last name was Ellis.  Whatever.  They not only violated almost every rule of no wake boating, they had made no observation of our presence.   And they apparently intended to just barge ahead into the lock.   We screamed louder!!!  And, they finally reversed.

But, they had already sunk their ship.  Not only had the lock master seen them come around the bend, six other cottagers had called in to report the offense.   By the time Rick gave the master a succinct, “We need to talk”, their fate was sealed. 

Both our boats were crammed into the tiny lock together, and no eyeballs met.  They knew.

Three feet from the top of the lock, the lock master cornered the owners.  They were not kids.  They were our age, and their fancy boat said that they probably knew better.  

The lock master was merciless.  He chewed on them for a good 15 minutes, and assured them that the police would be waiting at Peterborough. 

Seems they had not only tossed us around, they had been throwing up big wake for much of the river, and had literally crashed a boat up onto a dock. 

Cute lock, though.  Nice old limestone, with planter boxes full of petunias sitting right on the lock doors! 

Rick nicely took on the captain as we left the lock.  An appology was in order and he got one.  

By the time we arrived at the marina, the word was out.  We had our slip, and Ellis Island was given one a distance away.  And we did not see them again.

Happy hour ensued, and the next storm came through.  It was a day…

WILDLIFE SIGHTINGS:  Osprey, loons, herons, chimney swifts, and tons of Canada Geese making their way south.

DAY 25 - TRENT-SEVERN CANAL - Trenton to Campbellford

Saturday, August 14, 2010

New Crew: Pam and Tom VanHorn, and Donna

Weather: Partly cloudy and warm, but not muggy;  windy at times.

Canal:  Weirdly choppy and breezy inside some of the locks, yet canal and lakes are more or less smooth.

Night Mooring:  The wall at Campbellford. 

Dinner:  On board - Lime marinated pork, rice, tossed salad, and vanilla ice cream Nibs. 

Comments: 

So, we are on yet another canal system, the Trent-Severn, which is completely managed by Parks Canada.  Quaintly different from the Erie Canal, most of these lock doors are constructed in the old style, using huge wood beams (really squared off trees with creosote).   These need to be replaced as often as every 20 years, and are apparently how the original doors on the Erie were constructed.

Additionally, there is no marine radio communication system that boat captains can use to hail lock masters.  All communication is done by sounding the boat horn to alert the master - who might be out mowing the lawn, fishing along the entrance wall, or sleeping.  

Most amazing, however, are the “Sweeps”, a type of turnstile which are used for for each and every lock door.  Think playground merry-go-round with only two arms rotating around a central point.  And, each is pushed by only one keeper.   Believe me, the legs of these lock keepers show their work!  

By the way, each of the T-S locks employs a lock master and an assistant.  To date, the lock master has always been a male, while the assistant has been (with only 1 exception) a young female college student enjoying her summer job in the sun.   But there is good news!   Today we learned that there is indeed a female lock master up river - hurray for feminism?

When we finally came upon our first hydraulic set of doors, we learned that the hydraulics for that lock were installed because one keeper had gone completely numb in his shoulders and forearms from years of pushing those sweeps.  NONETHELESS, the keepers all maintain their devout allegiance to the historic sweeps, but acknowledge the need for hydraulics on the super-human doors at the double locks - each a mere 50 feet of iron and steel tall!

This was a very locky day for us - 12!!!  With most locks only a mile or three apart, our distance covered from 9:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. was a tiring 30 miles.  However, the double lock at the end of the day was spectacular, and a nice exclaimation point before happy hour at the wall in Campbellford.

DAY 24 - TRENTON, ONTARIO - TRENT-SEVERN CANAL

Friday, August 13, 2010

CREW:  Pam and Tom VanHorn, and Donna

Weather: Sunny and pleasant; nice cool nighttime sleeping

Time and Distance:  0 - sat dockside

Night Dockage:  Still at Fraser Park Marina, Trenton, Ontario

Dinner: Tomasso’s Italian Restaurant - Tom: Chicken Fettucini Alfredo (excellent and BIG); Pam/Donna: Chicken Ceasar salad - yummy; Rick: Ceasar salad with double feta and double dressing; lovely riverside atmosphere!

Comments:  A crew change day.  Donna flew into Toronto, with Rick picking her up by rental car at 1:30.  Pam and Tom VanHorn drove 9 and 3/4 hours from Amherst, New Hampshire, arriving around 6 p.m.  Rick had Loon Feather all cleaned, with linen changes, awaiting the next segment of the adventure. 

All of this was not without more drama, however.  Yesterday (Thursday), Rolf Bates awakened Donna by phone at 7:30 a.m.  

Dialogue:  “Donna, are you sitting down.”

“I’m still sleeping Rolf.  What’s up?”

“You don’t have your passport.   We do.  You have Joyce’s.”   

This, 24 hours before the plane flight to a now-foreign country: Canada.  Needless to say, Donna-Petoskey (and Rolf-Kalamazoo) was once again back in the car for a 4 hour drive to, once again, retrieve said passport.   Happy camper?  No.  Glad it was discovered before the Friday plane trip?  YES, YES, YES!!!

Here, just north of Lake Ontario, we will begin to travel the Trent-Severn Canal, crossing southern Ontario and ending at the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron.  But for tonight, we enjoyed live music from the local park, and strolled the riverside boardwalk to Tomasso’s Restaurant.  

After dinner, a last glass of wine on Loon Feather’s aft deck reflected giant blue neon letters from the bridge just yards away: GATEWAY TO THE TRENT-SEVERN WATERWAY!

And, Cap’n Rick remarked with amazement that he had already spent nearly 4 whole weeks on LF, and he was still so happy.  Never mind that he can not stand tall given the 6′3″ ceilings, or sleep full stretch on a wedge of mattress barely his shoulders wide.

LOON FEATHER ON NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER BLOG

http://blogs.nationalgeographic.com/blogs/intelligenttravel/

SCROLL DOWN TO LOON FEATHER PICTURES.  OUR FRIEND MOLLIE BATES IS AN EDITOR AT THE NAT. GEO. TRAVELER!


Personal tools